@Green May/June 2024 | Page 18

18 • Opinion

18 • Opinion

@ green | May-June . 2024

Weaving the threads of ESG

High time for the fashion circular economy to use the most robust and durable weave available

IMAGE 1 is a satellite imagery of piles of unsold clothes in the Atacama Desert , taken earlier this year . Seeing it should evoke a sense of dismay in all of us .

It is not just how ugly these piles have corrupted the dunes of this 1,600km stretch of the dry , hot desert in the north of Chile , reputed as an incredible place for stargazing , but also how unsustainable the clothing or fashion industry is , all because of fast fashion .
The fact that it can be seen from space shows how alarming it is . If we are not already there , we must address it before it escalates into oblivion .
It would be even more alarming to know that 92 million tonnes of waste are produced yearly due to fast fashion , so what exactly is fast fashion ?
It is a term to describe low-priced , stylish clothing that is translated from catwalks to speedy manufacturing and on to retail . It changes with the changing trends , and production often exceeds the pieces bought . By the end of the ‘ trend ’, which changes quite regularly , for example , ‘ the colour of Spring 2023 ’, despite the end-of-season sales , there are leftovers .
Although Chile imports vast amounts of clothing , it is reported that the piles that end up in the desert are not just a result of the country ’ s massive purchases . Still , the desert has become a dumping ground for manufacturers and retailers from all over the world .
In Malaysia , what happens to unsold clothes or even ‘ returned to seller ’ pieces ?
The multinational fashion companies follow their defined policies , but does the unsold stock get shipped to Chile or end up in landfills here ?
( Source : Circular Fashion Report , 2020 )
Not to point fingers in any direction , but with ESG becoming the beacon of most industries in conducting their business sustainably , it is high time for the fashion or textile industry to thread ESG into the textile supply chain , using the most robust and most durable weave available .
LIMIT USE OF VIRGIN RESOURCES
What would that encompass ?
Firstly , we must move from a linear takemake-waste economy to a circular one of Reduce-Reuse-Recycle .
How does ESG weave into what is depicted in the above chart ?
Environmentally , production should consider renewable and regenerative materials , which means limiting the use of virgin resources and reclaimed fibres or fibres derived from recycled plastic .
Non-toxic chemicals and renewable energy are incorporated to support lowenvironment-impact processes . It also means reducing scrap materials . Socially , it is about the workers , and textile or fashion companies must ensure fair and ethical treatment , abide by labour practices , and promote diversity and inclusion .
Engagements with surrounding communities are also essential to show community support , tying in with environmental consciousness as that would relate to the impact on the health and well-being of the communities .
SHARE BEST PRACTICES
It is about incorporating ESG policies and reporting and maintaining compliance with regulations . It also means governing continuous improvements for the company in terms of training , upskilling , incorporating technology to innovate , enhancing
Image 1 : ( Source : https :// www . space . com / mountain-discarded-clotheschile-satellite-photo )
BY NIK SUFINI
Nik Sufini is pursuing her Doctor of Business Administration ( DBA ) at UNITAR International University , and her area of research is textile circular economy . She is also a committee member of the Malaysian Association of Public Advocacy for Nature ( MAPAN ) which is a nongovernmental organisation that advocates ESG in business practices . partnerships , and collaboration to drive any collective change or to share best practices .
Technology can innovate the adoption of ESG , mainly because it is about data collection on processes and analysis of the collected data to determine the current state of things and to decide on the areas for improvement .
Innovation then comes into play to improve the processes and ensure adherence to sustainable practices , whether that involves investing in more technology intervention .
A textile company that puts ESG at the forefront of its business will incorporate technological innovations to address , for example , environmental concerns .
ESG is the sustainability north star for textile businesses and supports several SDG pillars , including SDG12 – Responsible consumption and production , SDG13 – Climate action , and SDG17 – Partnership for the goals .
Collaboration is almost always the glue in making things happen when it requires a few parties to work hand in hand .
As for the public , more vital awareness of the negative environmental impacts of throwing their unwanted clothes into landfills , coupled with strong policy guidelines to advocate responsible and sustainable disposable of their textile items , would encourage us to be more receptive and understanding of just what and how much harm one item of our clothing can inflict on the environment .
We need to look out for greenwashing , which is a definite no-no . This may happen in any industry , including textiles , and it is most likely about claiming to be environment-friendly when one is not .”
We need to look out for greenwashing , which is a definite no-no . This may happen in any industry , including textiles , and it is most likely about claiming to be environment-friendly when one is not .
One way to do this is to hire an influencer as the sustainability ambassador ( Manavis , 2023 ).
In this case , consumers can skew market demand towards products or brands that are genuinely sustainability-friendly , and the companies must know that the outcome of consumers finding out about their greenwashing is never good . – @ green